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Monday, July 5, 2010

Armored Cars, 222


Once the two HO scale Sdkfz 222 armored cars were built, I put a few extra bits on them from Roco and a few metal gas cans. Vehicles in the desert were often festooned with lots of gear, since all you had was what you brought with you.

You can see the axles. I primer paint all my resin models. Regular model paint does not always stick that well with resin.

I put the vehicles on their backs or on their sides to begin the priming. I used Testors spray cans of primer gray.
You can see the first pass. I may run two or three passes or more to get full coverage. Light coats, let them dry a bit between and you are fine.


The vehicles have been flipped and a few coats of primer have been applied to the upper works. The inside of the turrets did not get much, but that's okay with me.








6 comments:

Bob G. said...

Bunkermeister:
You do a nice job considering what you had to work with...the sign of a TRUE modeler...

Do the resin kits need a warm, soapy bath first to get model paint to stick better?
I figure the mold lube residue is present on kits like this.

I used to do the primer gig, but ONLY with armored vehicles, not planes or ships.

Planes would get sprayed base color (OD topside or light grey for undersides), and THEN get an over coat with secondary color (camo colors, esp. RAF)

Nice job you're doing!

Bunkermeister said...

Thanks Bob G. It depends on how they were made. Some will have mold release on them either from the original model leaving it on the mold when the mold was made, if it is early in the production run. Others will have mold release on when the resin kit is cast, if they use mold release.

Many now use baby powder for mold release and it typically does not need to be washed off. These did not need a washing.

Karcuss said...

Always wash everything
In a warmer(not to hot)water, well don't fill a bucket up after you have put in plastic sprues.
hand type soap not detergent.
You can do a mix of sprues, metals and resin in a bucket or an ice cream container depending on the job. it makes painting a whole lot easier, as you don't know what is on esp. resin

Karcuss

Bunkermeister said...

There is nothing wrong with washing everything, with mild soapy water.

Karcuss said...

also i have tended to use tamiya
Metal as a primer on anything that is a metal, and a Grey mix of end of black (or Semi gloss) and left over Greys. For figures and Concrete, brick etc and sometimes just black.
As will help in a bit of tone.

But the Metal primer seems to work and esp. when weathering as easy to have wear and tear.
i have also being using the Hull Red as a primer on later German such as Hetzers, panthers and on one of me Maus

come up well.

Nice work anyhow, hope we find the manufacturer.

But maybe Milicast of Scotland

cheers
Karcuss

Bunkermeister said...

Actual primer adhers to paint better than regular paint due to it's special chemical compsition.

That's why I use real primer on my resin.

Other colors work fine for styrene models like Roco.

Hull red is a great idea for late war Roco, the Germans did use a red primer.