Plastic soldiers and models are usually made
using molds composed of two big pieces of steel that fit together. Molten plastic is injected into the mold
under pressure to insure all the cavities are filled with plastic. When the two halves don’t match up exactly
some plastic will leak out. This leaves
some amount of excess plastic along the mold line, or seam, of the model. Companies expect this “flash” as it is called,
to be removed by the consumer.
If you can’t see the flash well, it’s
difficult to remove. I like to use an
Ott light; they provide a very bright natural light that’s designed for people who
craft or hobby projects. It makes a huge
difference when you can see the flash clearly.
Use the proper tool for the proper job. Don’t use a cheap sprue cutter. Don’t use nail cutters, wire cutters, or even
knife blades to cut troops off the sprue.
That extra bit of a nib you have to remove from each soldier is just
that much more work. Spend some money on
a Tamiya sprue cutter. It's about $25 or
more. It's expensive, it's worth every penny. I have every brand
and every version of sprue cutter, all of them, the Tamiya is way better for
cutting troops and bits off the sprue.
The Tamiya sprue cutter is very thin and one
side is very flat. It will allow you to
get right up next to the part when you cut it from the sprue. Often no more trimming is necessary because
the cut will be perfect.
However, don't cut anything except plastic
with it. You will ruin it if you cut metal,
even once. I keep an extra pair of wire
cutters nearby when cutting model parts or troops off the sprue in case I need
to cut a piece of wire. The metal used
in a sprue cutter is soft and will deform if you cut metal with it.
Then use the trusty #1 X-Acto handle that takes the old standard #11 blades. But the old #11 blade is obsolete for cutting off flash. I use Model Master #11 blades or the X-Acto Z series Gold Blade. Like the sprue cutter they cost more, but you get more value for them. They are very sharp and worth every penny.
I replace them frequently but I save the old blades. Old blades get put on old handles
for rough work on metal figures or other projects where a perfectly sharp blade is less critical. Change blades after every hour to keep them sharp. A sharp blade is a safer blade.
Then use the trusty #1 X-Acto handle that takes the old standard #11 blades. But the old #11 blade is obsolete for cutting off flash. I use Model Master #11 blades or the X-Acto Z series Gold Blade. Like the sprue cutter they cost more, but you get more value for them. They are very sharp and worth every penny.
I replace them frequently but I save the old blades. Old blades get put on old handles
for rough work on metal figures or other projects where a perfectly sharp blade is less critical. Change blades after every hour to keep them sharp. A sharp blade is a safer blade.
One final note, don’t work for more than an
hour at a time. Get up, walk around,
drink some water or juice and take a break for at least 15 minutes. Your eyes need to rest. Your mind needs to be
sharp because those blades are sharp.
My best friend, Randy, from Fidelis Models puts out a newsletter from time to time and I wrote this article originally for that newsletter. I have reposted it here because I have had people ask me about flash removal. https://fidelismodels.com/
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