Wednesday, February 21, 2024

Expendables in Model Construction of the Meyers Manx Dune Buggy US Army Version

These are Meyers Manx dune buggies by Hot Wheels, and this is their story.  I stripped the paint off the original and primer painted it with Rust-Oleum 2X Flat Gray Primer.  Then it got painted Rust-Oleum 279175 Camo Deep Forest Green spray paint.  The glass bottle is a bit of decanted Camo Deep Forest Green paint in a jar.  I use it to touch up spots that got missed or to touch up where I over paint with some other detail color.
This Gunze-Sangyo number 302, semi-gloss Green FS34092 is a very near match for Rust-Oleum Satin Hunt Club Green which I use to paint Post WWII US Army soldiers uniforms.  They are very close matches for the Imex and Revell dark green that they use for their WWII Revell US Army sets and Imex Korean War US and South Korean Army sets.
One of several Flat Flesh colors I use by Tamiya, XF-15.  Gunze-Sangyo #27 Gloss Tan works well also, along with Tamiya Flat Brown XF-10, Tamiya Flat Black XF-1, and Tamiya Red Brown XF-64.
This Flat Olive by Testors is one of the oldest colors in my inventory.  I have used it for as long as I have been painted models, so at least since about 1975.  It is a perfect WWII Olive Drab and matches Testors spray paint, 1265T Flat Olive Drab perfectly, their former model 1911.  I use it for WWII US Army vehicles and for post WWII canvas.
I mark most of my jars of paint with a sticker that has the name and number of paint on the top of the jar.  I store them in a drawer and it makes it so much easier to find what I am looking for.  Get the stickers from Staples or similar stores as price stickers.
This Model Master Light Gray is a decent substitute for a white primer if you want a brush on primer for a small job.  This is a very old jar so the current version may be different but it is FS 36495.
I do buy cheap acrylic paints at Hobby Lobby, WalMart and Michaels.  This Apple Barrel 21885E Jet Black works well for tires I think.
For glues on this project I used Goo by Walthers sold in model railroad stores or online direct.  It is good for gluing things that don't take glue well, it is a type of contact cement.  Put some on each piece, press them together, then pull them apart, let the solvent dry for 30 seconds and then press the parts together again.  I used it to glue the figures into their seats.  It is not the strongest glue but it is very sticky.  I used it to glue in the figures because they are two dis-similar types of plastic and will have very little stress applied to them once dry so it should hold just fine.
Bob Smith Industries makes a massive line of epoxy glues, I like the 5 minute Quik-Cure version.  Mix equal parts of it on a bit of aluminum foil with a toothpick and in five minutes it is holding and in about an hour you can sand it, file it, drill it, paint it, hard as a rock.
When in use epoxy I keep it cap on, nose down inside this old Pyrex bowl.  It keeps the rather thick epoxy near the top ready for instant use and prevents spills if the cap falls off.  I wipe down the nose after every use, a Q-Tip can help clean the cap out if needed.
Here are the Hot Wheels dune buggies in their US Army configuration.  Figures are cheapo 1/75th (sic) scale figures from Amazon with head swaps from Imex Korean War sets for Ridgeway Caps and helmets.  Both the figures and the heads take regular model glue so that was an easy conversion.  Legs had to be amputated to fit inside the passenger compartment but sometimes sacrifices must be made.  The legs were retained for further use on other projects.


Legion4 said...

Very cool !

jeigheff said...

Thanks for giving us a glimpse of the tools you use. If you don't mind my asking, what do you use to strip paint from plastic?

Mike Bunkermeister Creek said...

Thank you Mr. 4.


Mike Bunkermeister Creek said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
jeigheff said...

Thanks Mike!

I have gotten so-so results from Simple Green, Totally Awesome, and recently Lysol (equivalent to Dettol in the UK?) These products do a reasonable job of removing paint from the top surfaces of plastics, but leave paint and primer behind in recessed areas.

I am trying to save some inexpensive board game pieces. Either Klean Strip or EZ Off will be my next choice.

Once again, thanks!

Mike Bunkermeister Creek said...

Good luck with that, keep us informed of your results.


Mike Bunkermeister Creek said...

Jeff, always test a single figure or part before using any of these products on a mass of troops in case there is a reaction between the model and the paint remover. There are so many plastics out there you can't be sure what will happen with any particular one and any specific chemical. My first choice is Simple Green or Purple Power. Non-toxic cleaners, cheap, and easy to find in stores. Pour it into a plastic bowl, drop in the models, and wait a day or two or three. Take it out, rinse it off, paint just falls away. Or not.

If that fails, then Klean Strip Paint & Varnish Stripper, from Ace Hardware. Not too nasty, use it outside, wear gloves, and follow instructions. Put it in a glass jar, and leave it overnight, remove the models and the paint will just rinse right off, or not.

If that fails, EZ Off oven cleaner. Follow the directions, I leave it on a couple hours, and then wash it off. Gloves, eye protection, outside, don't get it on your clothing. Nearly always works. It will melt some plastics so test it on an expendable figure or vehicle first.

As always old toothbrushes, dental picks and sometimes even a wire brush on a Dremel tool can be helpful.

Doing paint removing on a warm day is best, outside is best, eye and hand protection is best, don't wear clothing or shoes that you intend to wear in public again. I keep an old pair of leather shoes just for paint removing.

Good luck. There are other products, most are more expensive, most don't seem to work any better than these do in my experience.

Good luck.