Making Resin Models

Resin models are simple, quick and easy to build if they are from Paul Heiser Models. Different resin companies have different philosophies on how to make models in resin and Paul Heiser Models are made for a high end wargame model. Use the same tools that you use for injected molded styrene plastic model kits. Sprue cutter, stick sander, tweezers, pin vise and drill bits, X-Acto knife break off cutter, and #11 X-Acto knife blade and handle, and small files all displayed here on a cutting mat surface. Alternate tools to replace some of these work fine too, sandpaper rather than stick sander for example.

Most resin models are made with a liquid silicone mold release that needs to be washed off with soap and water before construction begins. Simple warm water in the kitchen sink with dishwashing soap and a tooth brush is fine to do this task. Other resin kits are cast using talc as a mold release, it is less critical to clean this off, but it is best to wash it off too.

Lay the parts out and inspect them. Use the sprue cutter to trim the sprue off, if any. Often resin kits have small vents to allow air to vent from the mold and these vents fill with resin. A quick snip with the sprue cutter and they are gone. Use the knife blades to trim the flash. Resin models have more flash than regular injection molded plastic kits, but it is very easy to remove. Once the major flash has been removed use the sanding stick to smooth off the remaining flash or tool marks.

Inspect the parts once you think you have all the flash removed. Test fit the parts to make sure they fit properly. Sometimes more resin will need to be removed to make sure the parts fit properly.

Many resin parts are made with an open face, single part mold. This can leave a very glossy smooth surface, usually on the back or underside of the parts. These halftrack suspension pieces need a quick brush of the sanding stick to rough up that very smooth surface. A rough surface will create a texture for the glue to stick to and make a more durable model.

Here the model has been test fitted again just prior to being glued together. Use CA Superglue or epoxy glue to hold the parts together. I like epoxy better for larger parts and CA for smaller delicate pieces that need to look nice. The CA is more invisible than the epoxy which can be pretty thick.

Rummage the spares box and look for accessory parts that may enhance the quality of the completed model. On my halftracks I added gas cans, a saw, a shovel, and a spare tire, and of course machine guns to the shields. Once completed, the model should be primed